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A Serbian Diary 2004
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Introduction
In 1998 I visited Serbia for the first time.
I made some good friends there, despite the difficult times the region was experiencing.
I returned the following year, but left only two days before the NATO bombing started.
Many people in Serbia and the surrounding region suffered greatly throughout 1999 and the following years.
But in 2002 I was able to visit Serbia again to renew friendship (see A Serbian Diary 2002) and the improved situation meant I could go back again in both 2003 and 2004.
Richard Littledale
November 2004
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Day 1 - Sunday October 3rd
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At the outset a smooth journey turns into anything but. Easy flight Heathrow to Frankfurt, though the term"Skychef" for the leatherette roll we received seems exaggerated. It's in Frankfurt that the trouble starts. Twenty minutes out of Belgrade we are told that there is severe fog and the airport have turned off their navigation system. We must therefore divert to Budapest. When we get to Budapest, all the Serbs are herded into one area and everybody else is allowed into another area. This divides parties travelling together, including husband and wife. Several stories are told to us about a bus which will be coming soon. There is then a large argument, after which we are told that we must either take the bus or wait until Tuesday evening to escape from Budapest Airport but we will not be allowed out of it into a hotel. Eventually at 3.00 am the bus comes and we make the long journey through Hungary and into Serbia.
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Weather in Serbia is beautiful with no sign of the fog until the moment we cross the Danube, when mist and fog are all around us. Another shock awaits when the first of the two coaches peels off to Airport leaving me to head into the centre of Belgrade. I have only one phone number which doesn't appear to be working. Praise God for answered prayer - as the driver puts on the airbrakes, at last the phone connects. Andy is on his way and I am told to take refuge in a local hotel until he gets here. Teaching for me will not start until tomorrow, which is probably a relief both to me and the students.
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Bomb damage in Belgrade
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There are bombed out buildings in the heart of Belgrade, the middle of them ripped out by Nato's bombs. Meanwhile the foyer of the Slavia Hotel is elegant, with ladies who lunch smoking cigarettes though holders.
After a brief sleep I am able to complete my first session with the students. They are interested and enthusiastic, really keen to learn. Serbian is not a first language for all of them and therefore there is deep concentration etched on their faces.
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Day 2 - Monday October 4th
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Teaching begins in earnest today, with four sessions to catch up after yesterday's disasters. This makes for a tiring morning for all of us. Things start well however, with an enthusiastic reception for an animated version of the genealogy. A highlight of the day is when D tells me that she is enjoying the teaching. D is from Macedonia and struggles with her Serbian. She came to Bible School a couple of years ago and had to leave because the language was too hard for her. She went home and worked on it and now has returned to learn again. What a thrill that the teaching is getting through. As the morning goes on, we have to open the doors and let the gorgeous sunshine stream into the room.
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A striped snail on the edge of a field
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After lunch I take a long walk through the fields of maize, down towards the River Danube. The sun is hot and the countryside is beautiful. In amongst the maize, one or two locals have carved out a patch of their own ground in the fields belonging to big corporations.
Tomatoes and gourds are grown here, along with, peculiarly, a patch of azaleas. I pick out from the stubble at the side of the road an unusual sight of beautiful striped snails; they really are quite exotic. I return to the School for discussions with Andy and fellow teacher John.
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Day 3 - Tuesday October 5th
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Breakfast today is a surprising dish of large piles of steaming tuna served with sour cream. I decide to pass on it and stick to the safer territory of bread! Today with the students we embark on the Sermon on the Mount. They rise to the task wonderfully, discussing the implications of the different beatitudes. Towards the end of the morning, we listen to Ravel's Bolero as we discuss the growing crescendo in Matthew towards the climax of the crucifixion. This seems to help them grasp the idea of Matthew's creative genius as he puts the gospel together.
In the afternoon I head off through the golden fields of maize towards the small town of Opovo.
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Day 4 - Wednesday October 6th
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The morning began with an impromptu performance by Andy of a song from his forthcoming album. The students gather round him with looks of wonder on their faces. By the end of the day he has taught a group of them three rudimentary chords and they are able to perform a song for me and for others. They are thrilled to have learned so much in such a short time.
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Day 5 - Thursday October 7th: Practical Day
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Proverbs 1:7
The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge, but fools despise wisdom and discipline.
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We start with a Bible study on Proverbs 1, followed by breakfast together. After this it is the practical morning, so the students busy themselves cleaning, scrubbing and polishing around the College. One scrubs punctiliously round me while I write the next three sessions in the library.
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Just before lunch there is a spiritual highlight to treasure. At the TBC Friday prayer meeting before leaving for Serbia, each prayer was given a card with the name of a student. One person had a particular name and shared with me afterwards a vision he had of God's blessing pouring down on her like a shower. After praying about it, I decided to share this with her. When I did so, a large smile spread across her face. Before her return to the school after a gap of two years owing to language difficulties, two separate people on different occasions had given her exactly the same picture. What an encouragement!
After lunch we divide into different groups for our practical tasks. I go with a party to Avala, a refugee community in the hills the other side of Belgrade. Our journey starts with complexitities when we find one car is low on petrol. We start at the garage next to the College, which turns out to be awaiting a delivery, so we turn around and drive to Opovo where the garage is closed until 4.00 pm. So we turn off and head in our original direction, only to be phoned by the second car after a few hundred metres to tell us that they have broken down and run out of petrol! We drive almost into Belgrade, fill up a canister and drive back to them before the journey can begin in earnest. We then go through the centre of Belgrade, cross the mighty Danube and once again pass the bombed out shells of the building from the bombardment in 1999.
Once we reach the first refugee community, it is a heart-rending sight. These people are housed in a battered former psychiatric hospital hidden away on top of a hill. There are old women knitting, old men shuffling to and fro and young children running around. Many people are bringing watermelons home which they have found or bought somewhere. One tiny child kneels on the ground, enjoying his huge slice of watermelon in a delightfully unselfconscious way. John, my fellow teacher, and I, together with three of the students, join the children in a football match which pleases them no end. At half time we break for a cup of sweet Turkish coffee which certainly helps the energy levels.
After an hour we return to the cars and drive to the other half of the community, which is equally sorrowful. They are housed in an old hotel, or pension, which is falling down around them. These people have all been here since 1999. They were escorted out of the region of Kosovo by the Serbian Army when KFOR arrived. They have neither Serbian nor Kosovan papers and therefore are stateless. They seem very grateful for the visit and another football match ensues. We then drive back through the evening rush hour in Belgrade to the Bible School. On arrival we discover that the expected truck of humanitarian aid has arrived early. After a quick tea we spend the next two hours unloading the 40-ton truck by hand. There are hundreds of shoebox parcels, food hampers, hygiene packs, together with clothing and supplies for the Bible School. Amongst them are 5,000 sets of stainless steel airline cutlery, no longer permitted on flights after 9/11 but very useful for those in need. Everyone retires to bed tired and grubby. I hope for attentive ears at tomorrow morning's sessions.
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Day 6 - Friday October 8th
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Teaching this morning goes well with a particularly touching moment as students share some of their experiences of discipleship and close the session praying together in pairs. They know that after School is over there will be tough choices ahead, but they are prepared to make them. They also put a lot of effort and imagination into preparing advertising posters for the role of disciple.
This afternoon I borrow one of our newly acquired bicycles and pedal off into Opovo where to both my and Fiona's amazement, I am able to speak to her on the bus as she makes her way along Hampton Road. She is on a bus and I am in a small phone kiosk overlooking the village square in Opovo, dominated by a rusting Communist war memorial. Telephones are wonderful things when they work!
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Serbian Sunset
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This evening I sit out with some of the students watching the sun go down. Over dinner I discuss with Ira (our translator) the possibility of running a preaching workshop for all those who are interested.
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Day 7 - Saturday October 9th
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This morning's teaching starts with complicated questions of Jewish law and finishes with a practical session on interpreting the parables. It is a delight to see the students seize the fundamental principles and go on to create modern parables of their own based on the text. After some initial scepticism, they are very happy to do this and come up with some excellent results. After his session, John and I go off on a long walk in search of the Danube. In the end we are defeated by the absence of footpaths, but enjoy the walk nonetheless.
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Day 8 - Sunday October 10th
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Pista arrives during an early breakfast, as does our translator Mariana, one of last year's students. We drive off through the gathering mist and rain to join Gizika and Monika. With us in the car is S, a recent Christian who has been greatly encouraged by Pista. When we get there, Gizi is looking anxiously out of the window for us. Later she confesses that she was rushing round in such a flap getting ready yesterday that her neighbour came to help, saying "Please, please, don't panic so much!" She and Pista were up at 6.30 am, looking forward to the visit. We exchange gifts and news and then share a delicious pot of hot goulash which Pista has made for us. Gizika looks ten or twenty times better than she did last year and is very grateful for the expensive medication that the church has been able to provide for her. These medicines are literally changing her life. She has to inject herself with the interferon every day. The two of them are so grateful for all of the support in finance and prayer. Later on, after coffee, cake and one or two English lessons with the enthusiastic Monika ("Jack be nimble!") we are able to spend time praying together. Thankfully my timetable allows for more time with them on Thursday. They will join me at the Bible School for the afternoon and then we shall go into Belgrade together.
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Serbian Traffic Sign
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On returning I eat supper with the students and then am challenged to numerous bouts of table tennis. Most of them are far fitter and better than I am. J, a married student, asks me how things are at home and if Fiona and the boys are missing me. I explain to him the frustrations of the phone networks and he offers to let me send a text. There is an almost instant reply. Within a few minutes he comes in brandishing the phone, saying "My wife has another one, you must borrow this for the rest of your stay." When I say he is very kind, he shakes his head with a huge grin and says, "No, no, God is kind!" The delightful, practical faith of these young men and women is such an inspiration.
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Day 9 - Monday October 11th
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Three specific answers to prayer were revealed yesterday. On our visit last year, Derek and I felt moved particularly to pray and anoint Gizika, to pray for her grandmother who was very ill and troubled, and also to pray for Mariana our translator. Mariana asked us to pray particularly that she might find someone with whom to share her life. Gizika felt she needed prayer not just for the illness, but for the way it incapacitated her and made her feel she couldn't be a proper housewife looking after her family. Shortly after our visit last year, Gizika's grandmother declared she was completely at peace and wanted to go home. She died peacefully just before Christmas. Since our visit last year, Mariana has got engaged and will marry at the end of this month. When Gizika served the meal yesterday, as she handed round the pickled vegetables, she said "This is the first time in seven years I have felt well enough to make these myself." Thank God for answered prayer.
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Day 10 - Tuesday October 12th
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Things change fast in the Bible School: today we discover that sessions will need to be moved around, that 60 of the Oak Hall party are arriving one day early and that John and I will need to provide teaching sessions for them! At present, there are still not beds for everybody. However with prayer and faith they will be found. Teaching this morning goes well and particularly when we discuss the cost of discipleship, there is some heartfelt prayer.
In the evening we go out for dinner with Andy and Faye, assistant Director Sladjan and his wife Jaroslava, together with translator Ira and husband Sasko. The venue for the meal is a slightly odd pizza restaurant where the air conditioning appears to be on and 1970's music is piped through the system. The food however is good and we enjoy a lively journey home in the jeep.
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Day 11 - Wednesday October 13rd
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This morning's teaching covers Jesus' views on the end times and we conclude the morning looking at His story about the sheep and the goats. Once again the students show considerable skill in retelling the parables. These are skills they have been taught over these two weeks and it is good to see them using them. When discussing Matthew 25 and compassion for the needy, two of the students reveal some heartfelt stories about their own experiences in this area. One has worked in a home for children with severe facial disfigurement, and the other with heroin addicts.
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Matthew 25:45
He will reply
"I tell you the truth, whatever you did not do for one of the least of these, you did not do for me."
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The afternoon is spent getting the Bible School ready for the arrival of the Oak Hall group. They are coming overland to Opovo and will pass through Austria and Hungary on their way. Beds are taken out of the spare trailer in the grounds and wedged into every available space. In the evening I conduct a seminar on preaching, by request. There are many who pack into the library which has now become the lecture room so as to make room for the Oak Hall group. We start early at 7.45 pm instead of 8.00 pm as there are rumours that the coach is making good time and has crossed the border into Serbia. However they make even better time than we anticipate and after a brief 40 minutes we have to conclude our session. The Oak Hall group arrives tired and weary, but excited to be in Serbia. The students welcome them with a song and one of them, from Macedonia, gives testimony about his reasons for being at the School. A, a Romany also from Macedonia, then prays for the group.
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Day 12 - Thursday October 14th
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The Bible School
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This morning starts with a team meeting in Andy's office, with many of us squeezed around the walls. There is great excitement in the air. I start the Oak Hall team's series of Bible studies with a narrative sermon on Elijah. This seems to capture their imaginations. The rest of the morning is spent recovering from a rather sleepless night, then a brief lunch with those members of the team who have not gone to visit Belgrade.
At 1.00 pm, Pista, Gizika and Monika arrive to spend the afternoon with me. All week long Monika has been rushing through her homework to make sure that she can have this afternoon free.
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We drive through the rain into Belgrade with Gizika talking about her visits there as a child with her father. On one occasion, they stopped on their way home at the hotel which has now become the Bible School. Belgrade is as busy as ever and we pass by the bombed-out buildings once again. Our translator and guide, Mariana, directs us to an old restaurant in the Turkish quarter of the city. Here there are cobblestones and statues to poets and artists. When the meal comes it is a wonderful medley of Serbian meat dishes, into which Pista tucks with considerable gusto. There is lots of laughter around the table as we share stories.
When the meal is over, we head out and find the rain has stopped. We drive up to the Karla Magna, a wonderful park in the city overlooking the Danube. Mariana buys popcorn all round and we walk along eating it, then duck into a very chic shopping centre for shelter. This is certainly another face of Belgrade. Afterwards we walk into the park itself and look at the majestic views of the sun setting over the Danube. We walk all the way up to the monument where the two rivers meet. At this point, Pista leaves to get the car. As we walk back through steep paths in the park, Gizika is delighted to be able to walk so far. Last year she could hardly walk to the front door. On emerging from the park, we have to wait on a very narrow traffic island for Pista to arrive in the Fiat.
We drive home through the darkness and traffic to the Bible School, where Pista and Gizika soon get busy networking with this year's students. Gizi spends time with Anita, a Hungarian speaker, who often feels isolated by her language and Pista sits down with Sasha, a third term student who is uncertain about his future. Meanwhile Monika and I play with a ball which a member of the Oak Hall team has given her. The time comes for them to head home and there is an emotional farewell as we pray in the car park. I return to the evening's worship meeting and do my best to concentrate on what is going on. However two of the beloved students say to me afterwards "Professor, are you all right? What is the matter?" and I explain that it's hard to leave such good friends behind. The students are rather overwhelmed by the large group and are all taking refuge in the foyer, where I join them for a hot chocolate and some more learning of Serbian phrases.
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Day 13 - Friday October 15th
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The small town of Opovo
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This morning we cover some of the more difficult material in Matthew as we head towards the climax of the crucifixion. We start with the betrayal and arrest in the garden and there are very moving prayers at the end of the session. In the second session, we begin with a clip from Mel Gibson's film "The Passion Of The Christ" and discuss his means of portraying the events. In the third session we concentrate on the crucifixion itself with the students making perceptive and often very deep comments.
In the afternoon I prepare a sermon for use at TBC on Sunday evening. The subject is "Looking after strangers abroad" so there is no shortage of material! A quick bicycle ride into Opovo allows me to buy a small gift to thank Ira, my translator.
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In the evening I pick up on the preaching seminar, where I had to leave off on Wednesday. Once again the library is packed and people seem genuinely delighted to hear practical and honest teaching on this subject. After tea, which is a strange dish of polenta with sour cream, I take advantage of the rare hot water to take a shower. Afterwards J brings down a shoebox of family photos and we enjoy looking through them together. Later I use my limited Serbian to talk to his wife Katharina about her family. I also learn that A and T from Macedonia are separated from their 8 year old daughter. Her hearing impairment means she must go to school back in Macedonia and they find the separation so hard. When the Oak Hall group return, Andy and I take a walk around the grounds under the stars and an opportunity to pray together. As ever, he dreams big dreams and is looking forward to making as much use of the School as possible. We discuss the possibility of running a one day preaching conference when I am at the school next year. We shall see.
On our return, the male students are in the lecture room - not ready to bed down in the library just yet. Andy starts off singing a song he has just written and then we move into an impromptu worship session together. These are precious moments to savour.
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Day 14 - Saturday October 16th
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Over breakfast this morning, some of the students seem quite downhearted that this is the last session. We spend the session talking about the resurrection and how to communicate it. At the close, I say to them that if I were a new Christian asking them what the gospel of Matthew was all about, what would they say? Their answers show a real depth of understanding, for which I am extremely grateful. Katharina presents me with an address book and pen and pencil set. The book has been inscribed by all the students and also contains a handmade card from them. Slobodan presents another gift for Fiona and the family. They really have been a delightful, warm and generous group and it has been a joy to teach them. At the close of the session they insist on posing for a group photograph together then we creep across to the dining room without disturbing the Oak Hall group so that we can share a last coffee together. We have to wait for a few minutes whilst Elenka prepares a letter to Paul Hobbs, an artist in England. A pair of her shoes will form part of an art installation which Paul is preparing for next year. Sasko, the driver, is ill and so Magdalena and Sasha drive me to the airport. Thankfully the flight this time is rather easier and brings me to Munich without incident.
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-Soli Deo Gloria-
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